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Beng Melea: Angkor’s Real Tomb Raider Temple

Lightbean inside Beng MeleaLightbean inside Beng Melea

Beng Melea is a fascinating temple complex situated about 80km by road from Siem Reap ‐ about one-and-a-half hours by tuk-tuk. Unlike many of the popular temples at Angkor Wat, Beng Melea is largely unrestored ‐ in fact the site was only declared safe from landmines in 2007. Very little noticeable reconstruction and restoration work has been done and this gives you a real feel for what the temples of Angkor must have been like when they were originally rediscovered.

After two days of visiting the temples at Angkor, Kate elected to spend the day chilling at the pool at the Green Garden Home Villa hotel were we were staying. Early on our third-day in Siem Reap, I set off with our dependable and friendly tuk-tuk driver for one of Angkor's hidden treasures.

Reassuringly landmine freeReassuringly landmine free
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Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor

Strangler Fig, AngkorStrangler Fig, Angkor

Arriving in Siem Reap was a bit of a shock to the system after six weeks of travelling through the wilder, less-explored parts of South-East Asia with limited tourist infrastructure. The town is a bustling tourist hub geared towards mass-tourism and caters for all types: from backpacking students to jet-setting pensioners.

Of course, the main reason that so many people come here is a valid one: to see the amazing temples of Angkor.

The Angkor Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritiage site, covers about four-hundred square kilometres and was the home to several different capitals of the Khmer empire between ninth and fifteenth centuries.  We spent three days exploring the park, hiring a tuktuk with a driver for the entire time to get around (we would recommend our tuk-tuk driver for anyone heading to Angkor; his Cambodian mobile phone number is 0976 666985 - unfortunately we've lost his name).

We used two different guides while we were there and although all guides go through a rigorous training programme, we found that our second guide, Nak, was significantly better than the first. We would definitely recommend this excellent, eager, knowledgeable, well-spoken guide if you're planning on visiting Angkor - his website is The Angkor Guide/. We stayed at the comfortable Green Garden Home Guesthouse.

Banteay SreiBanteay Srei
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Why Travellers Should Be Aware of Firesheep

Firesheep is a new security exploit (“hacking”) tool that allows wanna-be hackers with very little expertise to gain access to the accounts of their victims on a range of websites, including facebook, flickr, and twitter, when using an unsecured wifi network.

It’s particularly bad news for travellers, who tend to use unsecured wifi networks from their laptops, netbooks and smartphones — in cafes, guesthouses, etc — much more than the broader public.

Although the technique that Firesheep uses is not new, it was previously moderately difficult to perform. The release of Firesheep means that someone with almost no technical knowledge can gain access to other peoples accounts when using the same unsecured wifi network.

You will potentially be at risk if:

  • You’re using an unsecured wifi network — one that isn’t protected by a password.
  • The accessing facebook, twitter or google via HTTP, rather than HTTPS (secure HTTP)

Luckily Firesheep does not allow the hacker to get hold of your password.

firesheep.jpg

How to Protect Yourself

Here are a few things that you can do to prevent being hacked by Firesheep

  • Use a secure wifi network wherever possible.
  • If you are using Firefox, the EFF’s HTTP Everywhere extension will force your browser to use HTTPS when accessing the affected sites. Unfortunately, it seems that Safari, IE and Chrome’s extension architecture prevents a similar plugin being written for any of them, so for the moment, it’s only available for Firefox.

    Even if you don’t use Firefox normally, it would be a good idea to use Firefox with the HTTP Everywhere extension whenever you’re accessing the internet via unsecured wifi. At least until the exploit is fixed.

  • If you have to use an unsecured wifi network, always log out of any websites that you’ve logged into during the session, even though you’re using your own computer. This will invalidate any website cookies which the hacker could use to pretend he is you.

More information:

Firesheep

How to protect against Firesheep attacks

 

A photographers guide to trekking

Dusty pass, very high up in the Bolivian Cordillera RealDusty pass, very high up in the Bolivian Cordillera Real

During our round-the-world trip, we did a lot of treks. Mostly we did high-altitude treks in the Andes and the Himalayas, but also a few in the jungles of Laos, Cambodia and Thailand. During these treks, I always took my camera and a few lenses along in the hope of capture a few good photographs. Here are a few tips I learnt along the way. Hopefully they'll help you out!

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Kampong Thom and the Temples at Sambor Prei Kuk

Strangler-Fig-Covered Temple at Sambor Prei KukStrangler-Fig-Covered Temple at Sambor Prei Kuk

Most tourists know Kampong Thom only as the half-way stop-off point on the bus route between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. On the recommendation of friends, we hopped off the bus and spent the night here so that we could visit the pre-Angkorian temples of Sambor Prei Kuk.

The town is a fairly unremarkable sprawl of houses and markets. Most of the restaurants are big canteen-like affairs built to cater for the busloads of hungry tourists who stop-off for lunch on their journeys between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The food and service reflects that fact than almost none of their clientele will ever pass though their premises again.

The temples are located sixty-kilometers out of Kampong Thom along a dirt road. Because of time constraints, we decided to travel there by car, but you can also hire scooters for the trip. Even though our car broke down a few times on the way, we were very glad not to have been on scooters as the roads were extremely dusty.

Temple at Sambor Prei KukTemple at Sambor Prei Kuk
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Phnom Penh

Royal Palace, Phnom Penh Royal Palace, Phnom Penh

As we travelled South-East Asia, one city continually evoked more negative sentiments from fellow travellers than most. We heard how Phnom Penh was run down, how it was dangerous, and many other bad reports. So it was with a little trepidation that we set off from Banlung on a hard, bumpy, ten-hour bus ride, arriving in the capital of Cambodia in the late in the afternoon. The horror stories, as they turned out — as they always turn out —  were baseless. Just like most of the horror stories you hear while travelling.

While Phnom Penh has a depressing period in its recent history, and certainly has more poverty than many other South-East Asia cities, it is an interesting city filled with friendly residents and we're glad we didn't skip it.

The city is located at the confluence of the Tonlé Sap and the mighty Mekong River. The Tonlé Sap is unusual for a river in that it seasonally reverses direction. From November to May, Cambodia's dry season, the Tonlé Sap drains into the Mekong River. However, when the year's heavy rains begin in June, the Tonlé Sap backs up to form an enormous lake.

Spirit House: Royal Palace, Phnom Penh, Cambodia Spirit House: Royal Palace, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
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Review of Termas de Chillan aka Nevados de Chillan

Regular readers: please excuse this interruption to our regular round-the-world programming. If you're not planning on skiing or snowbarding in South America, please ignore this post. If you're looking for options for some Southern Hemisphere skiing, however, please read this warning about Nevados de Chillan aka Termas de Chillan!

Normally we wouldn't be so outspoken about a resort, but our week in Nevados de Chillan was expensive and also disappointing. Although our hotel staff looked after us well and we enjoyed some good hikes, our intention had been to snowboard - something we did very little of in Nevados de Chillan. Hopefully this warning will persuade a few other winter-sports enthusiasts to go somewhere else and avoid losing as much money as we have.

Valle Nevado. Go here instead. Valle Nevado. Go here instead.
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Remote Ratanakiri

Banlung is situated in Ratanakiri Province in the remote north east corner of Cambodia. It feels very far from anywhere and in many ways it is: three-quarters of the population are illiterate and it is the one of the poorest regions of Cambodia. Nonetheless, it is an incredibly interesting region to visit as life for much of the population remains almost the same today as it has for hundred of years.

To get there, we caught the tourist bus from the 4000 Islands in southern Laos across the Cambodian border (after paying the minor bribe) to the town of Stung Treng, where we waited a few hours for the connecting "tourist" bus to Banlung. When the bus arrived it was definitely of the local –– not the tourist –– variety. It was packed! People were sitting in the aisle, atop heavy bags of supplies like rice. Others were standing in the stairway in the front.

Travelling up the San River, Cambodia Travelling up the Tonle San, Cambodia
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Travel Tips for Laos

Laos is a gem of a country and we loved almost every second we spent travelling north to south down the Mekong. Here are a few tips for things we would recommend and things to avoid while travelling through Laos.

Pak Ou Cave, Luang Prabang, Laos Pak Ou Cave, Luang Prabang, Laos

Continue reading our tips for Laos here

Don Det and the 4000 Islands, Laos

Sunset over the 4000 Islands Sunset over the 4000 Islands

The 4000 Islands or Si Phan Don are a collection of islands in the Mekong River, in the far south of Laos. They're a wonderfully chilled out place to and relax but they're no destination for thrill-seekers.

The boat trip from the mainland into the 4000 Islands was the most eventful thing that happened during our stay. We had an inexperienced boatman; he took a different route to the other boats and we spend much of the journey floating downstream sideways. Some of the local passengers shouted angrily at him, probably regarding his incompetent skippering. After a few rather grinding grates along the bottom, the boat lurched wildly from side to side before getting firmly stuck on a rock. Bear in mind that there were quite a few of us on board including a family with young children and we had all of our belongings (including laptops and cameras) with us - not great if we had capsized! As it turned out the river was not particularly deep at this point, although the water was fast flowing, so all the boys got out of the boat into the waist-deep water and lifted it off the rocks for us to continue our journey unscathed.

On the journey, we started to get an idea of why this place might be called 4000 islands - there are tiny (and I mean tiny!) little islands everywhere - most only big enough for one tree or a some reeds to grow on! In the dry season, there are literally thousands, but I can imagine that all but the biggest submerge in rainy season at the waters of the Mekong rise.

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Sunset over the 4000 Islands Sunset over the 4000 Islands
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